Pommard again

Pommard is a beautiful town with 3 shops, one small hotel/cafe and 2 restaurants. What made it stand out for me is the age of many of the buildings and the totally understated nature of the Domaines giving it a charm and class that must be typical of Burgundy. It is not unusual to see dates etched into the yellow stone from the 18th century, what a story they can tell!

Walking trough the town in search of the most famous names in the region was an absolute pleasure. Ignoring the invitations for degustion in the lesser domaines I was drawn to tiny name plates next to doors perfectly designed for a coach and horses from days gone by. Nothing much has changed here so it would not surprise me to suddenly see huge wooden carts driven by horses delivering their valuable load for destalking and sorting.

I lingered outside Clos des Epeneaux in the hope of seeing the Comte Armand and getting a personal invite in to enjoy wines that compete well with the best Bordeaux can offer. Instead I had to make do with a friendly bonjour from the winemaker in charge of opening up and getting on with the business of the day. I never crossed the threshold, maybe it was English reserve, maybe it was respect and reverence for someone's home but above all it was a sense that the business of winemaking in Burgundy is a very personal family affair and I was neither a relative or guest and had no place there.

Further wandering around the Church in search of Domaine de Courcel only reinforced the understated nature of the family homes and wine making on a small but high quality level. I was politely informed in the only wine shop in the town that making contact with the Comte Armand was a waste of time. "they never answer their phone" (in French) and " their wines are amazing but very very difficult to get hold of". In other words don't bother. I don't know if this was professional jealousy as the shop was owned by Jean Marc Boillot, another on my list to seek out, or it was just respect for the Grand Cru of winemakers in Burgundy.

After a small purchase of JM Boillots Pommard, 2005 no less, and a generic Red Burgundy from Anne-Francoise Gros et Francois Parent, the joining of two great Burgundian dynasties, I went in search of Messr. Boillot. Only seconds away from Chateax Pommard, Boillot has a lovely Domaine, completely in keeping with the history and landscape. Only the silver Masserati outside gave the game away and once again I was reminded where all the wealth in winemaking lies in both Burgundy and Bordeaux.

The more I read and pass through this magnificent region the more I think I am falling in love with it and how terribly traditional and classy the whole of the classic old world of wine really is. Having had the good fortune to visit many of the most famous wine making regions of the world, from California to Otago, Stellenbosh to Mosel, I am still most at home with the elitist, traditional, slightly aloof Chateax and Domaines of old world France.