New Zealand Wine Rocks...

New Zealand Wine Rocks...

I’m feeling very guilty that I’ve been back in the UK now for over a month and I have not shared with you all my thoughts and experiences from my trip to NZ.

I was lucky enough to meet some great wine makers and taste some lovely (and some not so lovely) wines from this fantastic country. On the worlds wine stage, New Zealand is a small producer punching well above its weight. I mean this in a positive way because it deserves to be a world player and can now give the old world wines a real run for their money.

I’m going to share my experiences of 4 winery’s all readily available in the UK, US and Europe. In the order that I visited them they are: The Highfield Estate, Wither Hills, Lawsons Dry Hills and Montana. The first thing you will note is that they are all based in or around Blenheim in the heart of Marlborough. I was fortunate enough to visit Canterbury, Central Otago and Auckland while I was there, all excellent regions producing some fantastic wines but I have to focus on one area at a time or any comparisons will become meaningless.

Driving around Blenheim is just like driving around any major wine producing area in the world. You are surrounded by vineyards, Wineries and signs offering tastings everywhere. It reminded me a bit of a cross between Margaux, the Napa Valley and Stellenbosch.

Highfields was first and my first taste of something other than Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir on this trip. A 2001 Riesling, superb pear drops and honey on the nose followed by a delicious long finish and a very strong desire to just pick up the bottle, find a quiet spot and finish the whole lot.
This region of New Zealand is famous for its Sauvignon Blanc so it was clear I had to sample some from each and see if I could detect the subtle nuances and differences from each Estate. I have to make a big confession here as to not being a big fan of the Sav Blanc. Not something I voiced while I was over there but the strong Capsicum intensities, acid nose and disappointing taste generally leave me cold. That said Highfields produces some pretty good 2007 SB, a great nose, some fruit and honey and overall a well balanced wine. Their Pinot Noir was not bad as well, having thrown half of it over my shirt and then bought a T Shirt with Red wine stains on it I felt like I had really arrived. The 2006 PN was okay, not much nose, it needs more time in the bottle but over all fine.

Wither Hills is massive compared to Highfields, a huge show off Winery looking very modern and frankly copying what Robert Mondavi was doing 20 years ago. Sadly the wines bear no comparison. Now it may have been that they only show their newest and least ready to the flocks of tourists but I have to say I was totally unimpressed. The 2007 SB was weak, it lacked any sort of nose, taste or finish and supported all my preconceived notions of how hard it is for NZ SB to shine on the world stage. The 2007 PN was far too young, tasted like it had been bottled yesterday and smelt like the inside of a stainless steel vat. It is sad that this is one of the names I recognised from a major UK supermarket, I just hope their buyers don’t buy this stuff on price without tasting it first.

Lawson’s Dry Hills is a gem amongst the big players in this region. Producing some interesting and dare I say it, outstanding wines which must be drunk. The 2008 SB was a delight, very well balanced, easy to drink and clearly some thought had gone into the wine making to get the right mix of fruit and acidity. The PN 2006 was superb! A fantastic drop of red wine with loads of fruit, finish and a taste that makes you want to drink more and more. The real star was their own 2005 Late harvest Riesling. Rich and complex the apricots and aromas just hit you followed by a palate of honey, figs and all things nice that make it absolutely delicious.

Montana has been under the eye of Chief Winemaker Gerry Gregg pretty much since it was a cow shed in a field. Now one of the largest producers of wine in the whole of New Zealand they produce a range of some the most exciting and innovative wines to come out of this country. Gerry is a lovely man, full of enthusiasm about the wines and despite now being under Pernod Ricards control, Montana is still doing its own thing extremely well. The Sauvignon Blancs were a delight, I tried their Road Rail 2007, Festival Block 2006 and ‘B’ Bancroft 2008 SB’s. All were rich, balanced clean and a delight to drink. I also tried their Forgotten Valley 2007 Pinot Noir. Massive Cherries and Plums with a superb finish and although young looking has the complexity and finish to get even better over the next few years. I also tried a Gewurztraminer, 2005 which was a real revelation. A million miles away from the Gewurz’s I know from Alsace this was lush and creamy tasting of lychees and Honey fighting to get out of the glass. It also had the longest aftertaste of any wine, superb value for money and a real find. I hope they let it out to the world at large soon. The ‘O’ Ormond was a classic Chardonnay. Full of flavour and I rate this as high as the 1999 Meursault I’m drinking at the moment.

My conclusion from this trip is simple. The Kiwi’s may have launched themselves onto the world scene with Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noir’s which will stand up well in any country against their own. The real treat and the real future of their success and ultimate world domination has to be through the other grape varieties that they are slowly perfecting and quite rightly keeping to themselves!

Out with the old

My wine merchant sent me a copy of their 1909 price list today. It was fascinating, not only to look at the prices, which were surprisingly high, but also the order and tastes of our fellow wine lovers back then. This particular wine merchant, Berry Brothers and Rudd, were established in the 17th Century so I expect they have been more interesting records at their disposal. the first thing that struck me was that Sherry and Port were the first three pages, compared with today's list (also provided) that starts with their own label wines. I am sure that this reflects the commercial drivers of today's and yesterdays business but I am sure the tastes of Edward VII had a big impact on what people were buying in those days. What also struck me was that the big names were all there, Yquem, Lafite, Mouton Rothschild, Margaux, Pol Roger, Clicquot, Mumm, Krug, Bollinger, Romanee Conti etc. The Germans had 2 pages but nothing from Rhone, Italy, Spain, North America, South America, South Africa, Australia or New Zealand. Clearly in a mere 100 years our tastes have changed and wine distribution has gone global (I am sure they were making wine in these countries then, just not exporting them).

Its a great piece of marketing and a fascinating snapshot of social history, well done BBR!

Justerini and Brooks

I walked past one of my favourite shop windows in London yesterday. Justerini and Brooks have been trading since 1749 and are of course well known all round the world for their J&B Rare Whisky. Their window is particularly impressive at the moment as it features the smells and tastes of Italian Red wines. Under posters listing the key grape varieties are massive glasses with the contents of the smells and tastes described. Huge glasses with Tobacco, licorice, gunpowder and all manner of products that evoke the true essence of these fantastic grapes. If you are in London it is well worth a trip to St James Street, not only does J&B have a shop front here but a few doors down on the left is the fantastic Berry Brothers and Rudd. I have to confess to buying my en premieur wine from here, its such a treat and their cellars are amazing (book in advance to look around). Enjoy.

Italy produces some amazing dessert wines

Its official. I was fortunate enough to be taken to one of the best Italian restaurants in London recently and was shocked at the range of dessert wines available. Admittedly my knowledge was previously limited to a couple of regions in France, Ice wine from Austria and some rather indifferent syrupy wine from Australia. The range and complexity of some of the Italian sweet wines is outstanding, this restaurant alone has over 14 to choose from. Three from Sicily, four from Veneto and a range from around the rest of the country. Light, floral, sweet and non cloying I had a delicious I Capitelli Passito Bianco from Anselmi and it was outstandingly good. Try it, its well worth the effort and for those who are interested the restaurant was Locanda Locatelli.

Its all Greek to me

I've just come back from a short trip to Athens. Now the Greeks are not especially recognised for their wine and so it was with some trepidation that I thought I would try some of their local Reds to see how they were doing. Choosing one to try from labels that look like spiders have crawled all over them was hard but I did recognise Cabernet Sauvignon on a couple and being a creature of habit headed straight for what I like.

I am delighted to report that they were not bad at all. Like the french they tend to be nationalistic about their choices so it was impossible to get anything other than Greek wine but I am glad that the standard has improved way beyond my previous visit nearly 20 years ago. The reds were robust, fruity and very similar to South America in taste and style. Apparently there are over 300 indigenous grape varieties in Greece of which about 60 are used today.

My advice would be to give them a go, if you can find any. My local branch of Oddbins does have one or two so if you are fed up with the usual suspects then impress your friends with something different. The best selection I have found is through mail order at Yamas Wines so if you are feeling brave give it a try, you might surprise yourself...

Good Wines under £10

I’m always on the look out for good value wines under a tenner (or under £30 in restaurants) that nobody else is drinking and at the moment I seem to be obsessed with Spanish Tempranillo grape red wines that are not Rioja. Tesco’s wine club do a good range of very drinkable wines that fall into this category with names you cannot pronounce but just look for the grape variety on the label and you will be fine.

I recently had two excellent white wines by the glass in restaurants for less than £9 a glass. I know it’s above my limit but wines by the glass in most restaurants are limited in choice so these are worth a mention. The first was a Viognier/Semillon mix from the Barossa Valley in Australia, a 2006 Grant Burge Zerk. Yes I know the name is horrendous but it was exquisite. A slightly flinty taste on the palette it had a lovely creamy texture without the usual bucket loads of wood shavings you expect from Ozzie wine. It gets better after two or three mouthfuls and then it’s gone (why does wine taste better after the first mouthful???) leaving you with a yearning for another glass then another then another...

The second was from Italy, a Flors Di Uis 2005 Vie Di Romans from the Friuli region. A superb visceral quality wine with honeyed overtones that sits beautifully in the mouth and is the perfect accompaniment to the excellent food at my local French restaurant Le Cafe Anglais in Bayswater. If you get a chance to get over to Whiteley’s just to have a glass of this stuff at the bar it is well worth the trip.

Does Gewurztraminer really go with Curry?

I had a curry last night. Nothing new or exciting about that but I wanted to test a well trodden path that no wine goes with a Curry except a Gewurztraminer from Alsace.

To be fair it is hard to marry up any wine with a curry. Let's be honest curry should be accompanied by a Cobra or Kingfisher lager, not wine. But I've read so often, by so called experts, that the one to try is a nice spicy rich and fruity Gewurz which apparently cuts through the food and delivers in spades.

What absolute TOSH. Now okay my fellow diner and I had been drinking a very indifferent Pino Grigio (yes I know it's crap) before our meal so it was such a massive contrast before we had even eaten our first poppadom. The harsh nettle like PG vs the sweet creamy Gewurz was always going to jar but we battled through.

The food came, from the best indian restaurant in Bristol I might add and it was fantastic. The wine, although fairly priced, just did not make the grade. Too sweet, too fruity, no spice and frankly a complete waste of time.

So to conclude, my advice the next time you are going out for an English, oops sorry, an Indian is to forget the wine.... drink beer and you won't regret it.