Out with the old

My wine merchant sent me a copy of their 1909 price list today. It was fascinating, not only to look at the prices, which were surprisingly high, but also the order and tastes of our fellow wine lovers back then. This particular wine merchant, Berry Brothers and Rudd, were established in the 17th Century so I expect they have been more interesting records at their disposal. the first thing that struck me was that Sherry and Port were the first three pages, compared with today's list (also provided) that starts with their own label wines. I am sure that this reflects the commercial drivers of today's and yesterdays business but I am sure the tastes of Edward VII had a big impact on what people were buying in those days. What also struck me was that the big names were all there, Yquem, Lafite, Mouton Rothschild, Margaux, Pol Roger, Clicquot, Mumm, Krug, Bollinger, Romanee Conti etc. The Germans had 2 pages but nothing from Rhone, Italy, Spain, North America, South America, South Africa, Australia or New Zealand. Clearly in a mere 100 years our tastes have changed and wine distribution has gone global (I am sure they were making wine in these countries then, just not exporting them).

Its a great piece of marketing and a fascinating snapshot of social history, well done BBR!

The French are selling out!

Has anyone else noticed the increase in varietal labelling from the french recently. I first noticed it in a bar in Spalding of all places. Louis Jadot no less! Their bog standard Bourgogne Rouge was clearly labelled Pinot Noir. I was mortified, how could such a well known shipper stoop to such levels and follow New World. What ever happened to people using their brains, and learning about this fine subject. But then I thought, no let's give the on trade the benefit of the doubt, maybe it is just to make life easier for the bar tenders who get constant request from customers along the lines of grape variety rather than a request for their finest red burgundy.

Yesterday I was in an off licence in London and Baron Phillipe de Rothschild had done the same, Oh My God! Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon etc etc. Clearly the world is going mad. Why are the french dumbing down, surely it is up to the New World to up skill their customers and differentiate their products by producer?

Not only am I disappointed at this turn of events but I for one will NOT be buying any french wine that cheapens itself by putting the grape variety on the label. Am I alone and out of touch???

BTW a for a great website that is well informed and really useful the click here.

Mouton Rothschild and Prince Charles

I’ve recently been trying to buy wine labels from the famous vineyard of Chateau Mouton Rothschild. For those of you not in the know the labels are famous in themselves in that since 1941 the chateau has featured paintings from artists as famous as Picasso, Braque, Chagall, Miro, Francis Bacon, Andy Warhol and a whole lot more. The latest painter to be featured is none other than our own Prince Charles. Now forgive me for being unpatriotic but since when has Prince Charles been in the same league as Picasso and Chagall??? I cannot remember any of his paintings selling for in excess of £10million at Sotheby’s but then what do I know? Maybe the chaps at Mouton Rothschild are once again ahead of the game and know something that we don’t know. He chose a watercolour of pine trees at Cap d’Antibes on the Cote d’Azur. It’s a bit dull but I’m no expert and frankly the contents of the bottle are far more interesting to me than the label. My collection is building, although it is not as easy as I thought to collect old labels, but I will include the 2004 when I can get hold of one. I just don’t want to miss out and if I am really honest, a part of me is secretly proud to have or future monarch featured on such a King amongst wines. Let’s face it, it does give the wine a certain regal accreditation and its much better than a pen portrait of Carla Bruni in the buff by President Sarkozy don’t you think?