Sunday 22 February 2009

Are the Americans taking over the wine world as well?

I watched a great film the other day which you have all probably seen as it was made in 2005 called Mondovino. It’s more of a series of interviews by a Jonathan Nossiter that roams the world meeting really interesting people in the wine industry. At first I don’t think much of it but as it went from France to California to Italy and then on to Argentina and other interesting wine countries it seemed to get under my skin a little. For the first time I really thought about the globalisation of the wine industry and how critics like Robert Parker have a lot to answer for. One of the arguments was that he was biased and due to his heavy American influences was imposing a particular style on the world of wine that was heavily new world due to his own personal tastes. Could there be some truth in this? Do critics really have the ability to be so unbiased that they can be totally objective when awarding marks that might make or break someone’s hard work and livelihood? Granted he always manages to award the Premier Grand Crus of France high marks every year but there is a sense that unless winemakers have produced something that is in the style of American wines they will never obtain the 92’s or 93’s that he awards that will set them up for life. Sure, there are exceptions and already I am sure you are thinking of particular winemakers all over the world that have been given high marks but what about the thousands of excellent wines that are not made in the way that he would like? Are we seeing another example of Americans dominating the world through clever marketing and a points systems that undermines the uniqueness and expertise of wine makers all over the globe? We humans seem to like scores and awards and some sort of accreditation that gives us confidence to buy wine that has been ratified by a world renowned expert or been judged against thousands of others at an international challenge. I think we should be more confident these days, we are more knowledgeable than ever before on the subject so the next time you are at the supermarket or are about to buy online from a supplier that freely quotes the Parker scores just stop and think about it. Do you really need this and where are the influences coming from that decide these scores? Make your own choice and I’m sure you will discover many gems that will impress your palate and your friends. Celebrate the fact that you did not go with the crowd and just buy the highest score you could afford or the buy the gold awarded wine just because hundreds of tasters over several days decided that it was best in class. I am sure you will be rewarded with some really good experiences and be doing the wine makers who don’t conform to Mr Parker a real favour. Enjoy.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Well stated!!

It seems we are either on a wine journey of discovery or one of the status quo which is familar and safe.

We have a new project that would welcome having your ideas included.

Ron McFarland
www.NoCookieCutterWines.com

Anonymous said...

"For better or for worse wine scoring is an unavoidable fact in modern wine marketing. Sadly all ends of the spectrum from supplier marketing to the end consumer rely much too heavily on the opinion of another person. I was as guilty of using the numbers approach in a sales call as anyone. It took literally 18 months of conscious effort to break that habit. I impress upon the gatekeepers both retail and on-premis that their opinions are more important than the many critics in print media and on-line. A sincere, confident in person recommendation can trump any 93 point revue. In the end why is in another person’s opinion more important than mine? This is a short response to a very complex question that has dramatic impact on our business."